I did not remember the metro being so unpleasant. I think Velib is the way to go. It is extremely popular with locals, even more than with tourists. It is funny how quickly bikes (and bike lanes) have become a fixture of the urban landscape. But it is just too big to walk everywhere (tried and failed both times……) and the metro is illogically arranged and very dirty. I had some good coffee. We thought the famous cafes where artisits and writers used to go were expensive, but generic ones in less desirable locations actually cost even more!